Many skincare products, including anti-wrinkle ones, are not specifically formulated for the particular characteristics of the delicate eye area. That’s why not all of them can be used for coping with under-eye bags, age- and expression-related folds, and dark eye circles. That's because they're usually formulated for different skin thickness and structure, whereas eye-area skin is far more delicate.
This problem was taken up by the French biotech company Greentech. The result of their work is a patented plant-based ingredient with the commercial name MYRALYS. This is a development that deserves special attention, so today we'll break down exactly how this ingredient works. We'll also explain how scientists tested its effectiveness and what results they obtained.
Why the Eye Area Ages Differently From the Rest of the Face
The skin around the eyes is particularly susceptible to visible signs of aging. That's because this is the most challenging area to care for - one where lack of sleep, facial expression activity, and age-related changes are all clearly visible. This skin is very thin and has almost no sebaceous glands. In addition, the 5 superficial muscles on the face around the eye and 7 internal muscles inside the eye socket remain active throughout the day.
A Structurally Fragile Zone
Eye area aging is caused by several factors at once. The tissues around the eyes are relatively thin and structurally delicate, and they endure daily mechanical strain. Scientists Kołodziejczak A. and Rotsztejn H. published their observations in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2020. According to their data, the delicacy of the skin around the eyes is the main reason why fine and deep folds, expression- and age-related changes, as well as bags and dark under-eye circles, appear so quickly.
Four Recurring Concerns
Scientists divide the problem of aging in the delicate eye-area skin into four component elements:
- Age-related changes in collagen and skin structure can contribute to the appearance of wrinkles around the eyes. Loss of elasticity means that barely noticeable changes gradually turn into deep, permanent folds.
- Loss of elasticity in the upper eyelid and its drooping over the mobile part of the eyelid. Causes may include glycation, chronic stress, an unbalanced diet, and other unfavorable factors.
- Dark eye circles and the tear trough, which become increasingly noticeable and deep with age.
- Puffiness and under-eye bags can be associated with fluid accumulation and changes in tissue structure, among other factors.
This is why the question of how to get rid of dark eye circles and under-eye bags is becoming increasingly important.
MYRALYS: Origin of the Ingredient
Behind the MYRALYS technology lies what might seem like an ordinary plant: the root of yellow gentian (Gentiana lutea). Traditionally, yellow gentian has been used in folk medicine and has also been investigated for various biological properties. (Wang et al., 2020). Borrowed from folk medicine, Gentiana lutea is now being actively studied for use in cosmetology.
Yellow Gentian, the "Queen of the Mountains"
Gentian mainly grows in the Auvergne region of France. Because of where it grows, the plant is called the "queen of the mountains." The root itself is also regal in scale - it can weigh up to 7 kg. Such a root takes half a century to grow.
Gentiopicroside: The Key Molecule
The roots of mature plants - at least 20 years old - are the ones valuable for cosmetology. They are harvested only once every 20 years; harvesting sites are rotated, and the soil is restored afterward. Only licensed harvesters may collect the roots, since the French Gentiana Lutea association closely monitors the plant's conservation in the region. Greentech is a member of this association and therefore follows all the rules regarding raw material sourcing.
From the roots, the compound gentiopicroside is extracted. It then undergoes a purification process so that the gentiopicroside concentration reaches at least 30% of dry weight.
How MYRALYS Works: One Active, Six Pathways
The MYRALYS technology works in several directions at once in eye-area skincare products. Each claimed mechanism of action is backed up by laboratory studies and focus-group research.
Helping to Reduce Dark Eye Circles
The technology activates the skin's internal antioxidant defense processes (NRF2). Because the eye area has particularly thin and delicate skin, products formulated for this area are designed with these characteristics in mind. There, the active compound helps cells resist the damage caused by harmful environmental factors.
In laboratory studies, MYRALYS increased markers associated with the skin's antioxidant defense by 14–21%. Partly, counteracting oxidative stress also helps reduce dark circles under the eyes and gives skin a healthier appearance.
Supporting the Appearance of the Eye Area
The bluish shadow under the eyes, which we often simply attribute to dark circles caused by fatigue or stress, can sometimes result from the proliferation of small blood vessels that show through the thin skin. How can this type of dark circle be addressed? In laboratory testing, MYRALYS was associated with a 15% reduction in a marker related to blood-vessel formation. Curbing excessive small-vessel proliferation can help reduce a tired-looking appearance.
Slowing Down Glycation
Glycation is a process in which individual glucose molecules attach to protein molecules. Collagen is also a protein that affects skin elasticity. As a result of collagen glycation, its molecules become stiffer and more brittle, causing elasticity and firmness to gradually decline. The human body already has enzymes capable of counteracting glycation. Laboratory studies show that MYRALYS increased the activity/expression of GLO-1, an enzyme involved in the detoxification of reactive carbonyl compounds. So they more actively intercept glucose molecules that could bind to proteins. This slows the accumulation of glycation byproducts.
Helping Collagen Synthesis
Fine wrinkles on the face, particularly around the eyes, can appear due to reduced collagen production. As a result, the first signs of aging can show up even at a fairly young age. MYRALYS technology addresses loss of collagen as a cause of eye area aging. So, using this type of anti-aging cream for the eye area may help protect elastin from photodamage (the negative effects of sunlight) and stimulate the skin's own collagen production.
In tissue-based laboratory studies, gentiopicroside was associated with an increase in collagen synthesis. Collagen synthesis increased by 76% under the tested conditions (in vitro result). MYRALYS also showed a 41% protective effect against UV-induced elastin loss under the tested ex vivo conditions. These calculations were based on comparisons with samples that were not exposed to gentiopicroside.
Sustaining a Fresher-Looking Eye Area
Inflammatory processes are one of the causes of puffiness and under-eye bags. Swelling occurs because fluids seep into the tissue - partly because inflammatory processes, even when not affecting the whole body, weaken blood vessel walls. This makes it easier for fluid to enter the tissues. Laboratory findings suggest that MYRALYS may influence processes associated with inflammation. This may be relevant to the appearance of puffiness and under-eye bags.
Research into Lymphatic-Related Processes
Another cause of puffiness and under-eye bags (especially the kind noticeable in the morning) is slowed lymphatic outflow. In laboratory testing, MYRALYS increased VEGF-C expression by 48%, a marker associated with lymphatic processes. In a clinical study, participants also reported a reduction in morning puffiness.
MYRALYS in the REVERIS Eye Cream Formula
It's already possible to check whether the MYRALYS technology performs as the manufacturer claims, since products based on it already exist on the market. One such product is REVERIS Eye Cream by Plamine. Besides the main compound, its formula contains other beneficial ingredients.
The formula includes:
- White clover and mannose extract, which affect skin elasticity and density.
- Argan callus extract, which has a positive effect on skin regeneration and on reducing inflammatory processes.
- Hesperidin, included in REVERIS Eye Cream, is associated with skin microcirculation in ingredient research.
These and other components in the product's formula work together to give skin a healthy, fresh appearance. In addition, the tube's applicator tip features a vibration function. It can be chilled, making it easier to reduce morning puffiness right during application. Meanwhile, the micro-vibration gently and carefully massages the skin and gives a pleasant sensory experience.
Clinical Study Results: MYRALYS in Action
At the end of this article, you'll find links to scientific sources and Greentech's study results. Tests were conducted on fibroblasts (cellular level), skin samples, and as part of a clinical study.
In a 28-day clinical study of a formulation containing MYRALYS 0.5%, scientists came to the following data:
| Eye-area concern | Result |
|---|---|
| Upper eyelid folds | Mean fold height (Rz) reduced by 18% on Day 14 and 9% on Day 28 vs. baseline. |
| Upper eyelid skin roughness | Mean skin roughness (Ra) reduced by 12% on Day 14 and 2% on Day 28 vs. baseline. |
| Under-eye redness & dyschromia | Mean redness (a*) reduced by 14% on Day 14 and Day 28, compared with 5% and 6%, respectively, with placebo. |
| Under-eye bags | Mean volume reduced by 18% on Day 14 and Day 28 vs. baseline, while the placebo group showed an increase of 6% and 10%, respectively. |
| Tear trough | Mean depth reduced by 13% on Day 14 and Day 28 vs. baseline. Skin roughness (Ra) reduced by 6% on Day 14 and 4% on Day 28; Rz reduced by 14% and 13%, respectively. |
You will find links to appropriate studies at the end of the article. And below are answers to the main questions behind these figures.
How to get rid of dark eye circles?
Ex vivo (laboratory) studies showed that using a cream based on MYRALYS makes skin more protected against negative environmental effects. Specifically, treated test samples were exposed to UV radiation and then compared with untreated samples. The treated samples proved more resistant to negative factors. These findings suggest that MYRALYS may help improve the appearance of dark eye circles, especially given its anti-inflammatory properties.
For best results, the manufacturer recommends applying the cream twice a day as part of the morning and evening skincare routine. The expected outcome is a more even skin tone, a healthy, hydrated appearance, and a reduction in eyelid fold depth. Results recorded via skin-color spectrophotometry confirm this.
How to get rid of under-eye bags?
To reduce minor, barely noticeable under-eye bags that appear in the morning, it's worth placing the cream in the refrigerator for a few minutes beforehand. This helps cool the applicator tip. The gentle micro-vibration massage combined with the cream's active ingredients helps reduce puffiness and make it less noticeable.
Clinical studies involving 44 volunteers (men and women, ages 43–64) showed that for more noticeable puffiness, at least 14 days are needed to see a visible effect. In a 28-day randomized, split-face clinical study involving 44 volunteers, a formulation containing 0.5% MYRALYS was compared with a placebo gel. Results were measured using 3D skin-surface scanning.
Summary
MYRALYS is a fairly young technology, even though the yellow gentian plant from which the active compound is extracted has long been known in folk medicine. Still, the available clinical and laboratory tests, as well as applied research, already show promising results. The main appeal of products built on this technology is that they function simultaneously as an eye cream for under-eye bags, a product for under-eye dark circles, and a way to curb the development of fine wrinkles.
These products are already been discussed in scientific journals. Their main appeal lies precisely in the fact that these creams work on several of the main causes of eye-contour aging at the same time.
Even now, you can rely not only on scientific reports but also on personal experience by incorporating REVERIS Eye Cream into your daily routine. The manufacturer states that, in addition to the effect of the active compound, there's the added positive impact of the applicator's micro-vibration - a pleasant bonus on top of the rest of its features.
This material is for informational purposes only. Any choice of skin-treatment products should be made only after consulting a dermatologist. If you have a diagnosed skin condition or known allergies, consult a skin professional before using a new skincare product. Also, perform an allergy patch test on a small area of skin before regular use.
Sources
- Greentech research data: Wang et al., 2020; Keller, 1986; Martin et al., 2009; Ferreira et al., 2020; Vrcek et al., 2016; Fournet, 2016; Yoshinaga et al., 2012; Lin et al., 2020; Yan et al., 2018; Langton et al., 2010; Godwin et al., 2019.
- Felix Keller, Gentiopicroside is Located in the Vacuoles of Root Protoplasts of Gentiana lutea, Journal of Plant Physiology, 122(5), 473–476. DOI: 10.1016/S0176-1617(86)80110-9. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/257039614_Gentiopicroside_is_Located_in_the_Vacuoles_of_Root_Protoplasts_of_Gentiana_lutea
- A. K. Langton, M. J. Sherratt, C. E. M. Griffiths, R. E. B. Watson, A new wrinkle on old skin: The role of elastic fibres in skin ageing, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32(5), 330–339. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20572890/
- Ivan Vrcek, Omar Ozgur, Tanuj Nakra, Infraorbital Dark Circles: A Review of the Pathogenesis, Evaluation and Treatment, Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 9(2), 65–72. DOI: 10.4103/0974-2077.184046. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27398005/
- Kołodziejczak A., Rotsztejn H. "The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment." Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2020.1832189
